3 Ways to Drink In the San Juan Islands’ Autumn Idyll

When I think of the ideal combination of place and pursuits for an Indian summer getaway, few destinations match Orcas Island.

A view from the beach at Orcas Island's Lieber Haven Resort

Orcas is the largest of the 172 islands in the San Juan archipelago that lie scattered over the sea where Washington state borders British Columbia.

This laid-back adventure spot hasn’t changed much in the nearly 40 years I’ve been coming here. Views are pastoral: old barns sag in yellow meadow grass where abundant deer graze. Spires of purple foxglove reach sunward. Broad-leaf maples shade the road in forested corridors. Fresh veggies flourish on small organic farms, and wild blackberries provide a ready bounty for homemade pie sold at several island cafés.

Once the ferry slips into the dock, I head up the hill and am soon winding along Ship Bay, windows down, salt tang blowing in, sailboats scudding across the waves. I’m headed to Lieber Haven, a 1960s-era set of vintage cabins on the beach at Obstruction Pass, way down on the southeast tip of the island’s “horseshoe.” It feels like the end of the world.

Other than the price of real estate, which has soared here along with all water-proximate property in the Northwest in the last two decades, Orcas remains much as I remember it from my childhood. Yes, espresso has overtaken drip coffee, and you can find wi-fi even if you can’t get cell reception. But for the most part, the island’s placid character and sublime vistas remain as enchanting as ever.

Madrona trees along Deer Harbor

What I love most about Orcas is the fact that I can combine a deeply restful environment with invigorating outdoor play. That’s a hallmark of the San Juans, beloved by legions of greater-Seattleites who come here to hike, bike and kayak.

The climate is a draw: lying in the rain shadow of the coastal mountains, the islands are often dry when it’s drizzly in Seattle or Vancouver. The micro-climate is responsible for the oaks and red-barked madrona trees that populate the drier slopes among the Douglas firs and Western red cedars. Balmy fall days are ideal for exploring the island’s diverse natural beauty without crowds.

I suggest these possibilities for experiencing the natural wonders of this sublime corner of our planet:

A view from atop Mt. Constitution on Orcas Island showcases Mt. Baker, Bellingham, and the San Juans.

1. Hike and bike around the forests and waters
Moran State Park is a 5,000-acre preserve of old-growth timber, five lakes and 2,400-foot Mt. Constitution. The core of the park was donated in the early 20th century by Robert Moran, a wealthy shipbuilder and former mayor of Seattle. The park offers 35 miles of trails for hikers and mountain bikers. Classic outings include hikes through deep forest to Mountain Lake and Twin Lakes, and for the hardy, up Mt. Constitution.

Very fit cyclists can also huff up the 5.5-mile paved auto road to the summit. At the top of the stone observation tower there’s an exhilarating 360-degree view of Mt. Baker, the San Juan and Canadian Gulf Islands, and on a very clear day, a north-to-south sweep from Vancouver to Mt. Rainier. Easy walks also abound, including a gentle 2.7-mile loop around Cascade Lake, and a quarter-mile jaunt to Cascade Falls, with big trees and mossy nurse logs along the way. You can also rent a rowboat or paddleboat on Cascade Lake.

If your taste or endurance for biking runs more to level terrain, Orcas may not be your best bet, as it is very hilly. However, nearby Lopez Island, accessible by ferry from Orcas or from Anacortes on the mainland, is a popular cycling destination due to its flat topography. Bring your bike on the ferry, or rent one in Lopez Village.

2. Sea kayak among seals, bald eagles and blue herons

Sea kayaks on a secluded Orcas Island beach

Several outfitters offer guided kayak tours from various points on the island, including Shearwater Adventures. Tours, which run April through October, are typically 3 hours and run about $60. Spring Bay Inn near Obstruction Pass State Park offers a 2-hour morning excursion with a hearty brunch afterward, available also to non-guests with advance reservations ($30; $45 with brunch). If you’re comfortable with a paddle or a confident self-learner, you can rent a kayak on your own for less; a one-hour rental for one person is $15, $25 for two, from the marina at Lieber Haven Resort. I like to circumnavigate Obstruction Island, which lies between Orcas and neighboring Blakeley Island, for an easy 90-minute paddle. You’re quite likely to spot bald eagles atop firs and blue herons at the water’s edge, and you may even see Baxter, the resident seal who hangs around the Lieber Haven dock.

3. Unwind at Doe Bay

Paradise on Doe Bay

Take a drop-in yoga class, relax in the sauna, or soothe sore muscles with a soak in the mineral springs at Doe Bay Resort. The resort’s new owners have spruced the place up while retaining its long-time ‘granola’ ambience. If you’re not staying here, you can still use the clothing-optional pools for $15, which buys you a half-day or evening pass. Three slate soaking tubs offer different temperatures, with views of the tranquil harbor below. If you’ve worked up an appetite, try Doe Bay’s café that features fresh produce from the resort’s organic garden. Or head down the road to Café Olga, also a purveyor of island fare — save room for the warm blackberry pie.

For links to a wide range of inviting places to stay on Orcas Island, from cozy inns to cabins and B&Bs, visit www.guidetosanjuans.com; http://www.gonorthwest.com/washington/sanjuan/Orcas/; or www.orcas-lodging.com. Beautiful lakeside camping is also available at Moran State Park.